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snoofer Last edited by:
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Contributed by: JamesBonged
I grow in a confined space measuring 2 feet in
width by 3.5 feet in height and 1 foot in depth. This
restriction in height causes most cannabis plants to
overgrow the space within a few weeks. As documented
by many FAQs, implementing SCROG type propagation
techniques from seed is far from ideal. They are
fantastic methods to maximize yield in a small area from
clone though.
As I am growing from seed, I will
have to sex them at the lowest profile possible. This
will still allow a screen to be fitted above the
remaining females for complete control of the plant's
profile.
Note: Click on images with borders to
enlarge
A few
household items:
A length of earthing wire
Side cutters or wire cutters
A number of self tapping screws
A Phillips screwdriver
The most difficult
item to source is probably the earth wire. This is thick
copper wire used for earthing certain electrical devices
and can be bought cheaply at most electrical suppliers.
This wire has a soft rubber coating on the outside
protecting from the wire. Also the copper is malleable
enough to be formed into whatever shape is required and
doesn't lose this shape with growth.
Staking and training: The
stake can then be removed and repositioned to again
train the main growth tip downwards. The lower branch
growth accelerates and can also be trained using the
stake method. This again reduces the overall profile of
the plant.
Training continues into flowering
until the males have been identified and removed to
leave the females to be trained into a screen. The
plants can then effectively be controlled using Scrog
techniques to maximize light efficiency and yield.
Here is a dark purple stemmed LifeSaver from
BOG.
This plant has been vegging for 19 days now
and is approximately 9 inches in height, on its eighth
node.
This pic shows where the crook is
placed.
It is positioned above the first or
second node with the other end of the wire laying
against the top of the plant's pot.
Where it
touches the pot, a self tapper is screwed in as high as
possible. This is to reduce the likelihood of a leak
when watering. The wire can then be cut to length and
wrapped around the self tapper.
This pic shows the trunk tie in place.
It's wrapped off to the self tapper to a length
where the tie is tight against the main stem to keep it
vertical.
This pic shows the gentle bending of the
main growth tip over in the opposite direction to the
main trunk tie.
This must be done progressively
to avoid snapping the main stem off. A small break in
the stem isn't a problem as the plant will recover.
If it does break off completely, leave the
plant! It takes a week to get over this shock but they
then react as any topped plant would.
This pic shows the second length of
wire, again with a crook in one end.
This time
it is used as a stake to pull and hold the main growth
tip in place. The crook is placed under the fan leaf
stems of the upper most node, with the other end of the
stake being pushed into the soil about an inch or two.
There must be sufficient distance between the
top of the growth tip and the stake crook. This is to
stop the main growth tip from popping out from the crook
of the stake. The distance the stake is pushed into the
soil determines how low the growth tip is trained.
It must be trained to below the next node or
further for maximum increase in lower branch growth and
reduction in profile.
This pic shows the trained main
growth tip with the trunk tie and stake to hold it in
place.
This effectively reduces the vegging
plant from an eight to a four inch profile.
All
three LifeSavers after their tying and staking
session...
The
final pic shows the plants after 12 hours of HPS light.
They have all shifted the top half of their profile
towards the light and exposed all the lower growth
shoots. This gives them maximum exposure to the light
and therefore potential for growth.
Last modified: 04:16 - Feb 05,
2003
faq:1417 "How can I train
my plants for a lower
profile?"